Slow Food: Elitist, Irrelevant or Just Too Defensive?

Much fanfare is being made about the upcoming Slow Food Nation conference, to be held from Friday, August 29 to Monday, September 1, 2008 in San Francisco. Among this fanfare were criticisms laid against Slow Food by Bruce Sterlings in the March 2008 issue of the online magazine Metropolis, where he accuses Slow Food of snobbery and elitism. Predictably, the response from Slow Food to this article on the Slow Food USA Blog was to attempt to deflect and counter every detailed point that Sterling tried to make in an effort to prove that Slow Food is not elitist and, if it is elitist in some regards, why it was justified for being so.

The question for me about Slow Food is less whether it’s elitist or snobbish, but whether it’s relevant to people of diverse economic and/or cultural backgrounds. A lot of people don’t feel there is sufficient economic and racial diversity in Slow Food to engender it as a true movement and that the lifestyle and cultural renaissance that Slow Food advocates is not accessible to people of less privilege, income, etc. This is certainly true for us at People’s Grocery as our experience is that people living in low-income communities and communities of color aren’t compelled by, or even aware, of what Slow Food is doing. This is not to say that Slow Food isn’t trying to engender a more inclusive and multicultural movement. But such issues will continue to engender criticism, some of it fair and some of it not fair at all.

Perhaps, when criticized in these ways, Slow Food should not just strive to defend itself from criticism but also acknowledge where its movement is trying to grow and change. Being transparent and open about such challenges and the efforts made will help shift perceptions/criticisms of Slow Food to give it more of a chance of offering meaning to many more people and creating a transformative revolution greater in magnitude and scope. This would be a courageous act on Slow Foods part and would significantly increase the respect it was given by food justice organizations striving to address inequities in the food system. As in all matters regarding undoing social and economic inequality, the first step to becoming an ally to people of color and low-income communities is to acknowledge the privilege one has and the ways one contributes to the perpetuation of inequity. In its effort to connect with communities of color, as well as increase their participation at the Slow Food Nation conference, Slow Food would do very well to make such acknowledgements.

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No Responses to “Slow Food: Elitist, Irrelevant or Just Too Defensive?”

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  2. TracyFood » Recent reading roundup! Says:

    […] I had another “what does this mean about my world?” moment when I found out aboutBruce Sterling on Slow Food, which I haven’t read yet, but discovered through a People’s Grocery blog post with the awesome title Slow Food: Elitist, Irrelevant or Just Too Defensive? Win. […]

  3. Sudeep Motupalli Rao Says:

    Thank You Brahm for articulating beautifully an important aspect of the Slow Food phenomenon. I never read Bruce Sterling’s write up but when I first came to know about Slow Food, I was immediately aware of the jarring disconnect with low income people, minorities or for that matter any common man or woman. It came across to me as a European import that was consumed without digestion. Reminded me about aristocracy and all the anachronistic manure that’s associated with it. But after meeting and hearing Carlo Petrini speak and studying the origins of the movement and its philosophy, I realized that it was fundamentally very earthy and familial. It resonates deep within. I think that we’re justifiably repulsed by the contemporary and local manifestation of Slow Food because it didn’t pause to introspect about people that are not at the table. And why it was so.

    The season has changed and people are emerging who have a fresh inclusive vision. I concur that the issue is not how can we get more low income people or minorities to join the Slow Food movement but rather how Slow Food can fundamentally redefine and chart a blazing path to remedy the inequities so that after a while we realize and discover that the person we’re embracing is a slow foodie, less poor and very different from us. Welcome to Slow Food 2.0.

    Sudeep Motupalli Rao
    Host, The Food Justice Community Kitchen at The Big ONE Convergence
    www.beautifulcommunities.org

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